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Anthracnose is a very common disease that attacks a very wide range of plants and trees. There are two ways Anthracnose disease can attack trees: 1) Spot Anthracnose that impacts tree leaves and blossoms, and; 2) the more harmful canker versions that disrupt a tree’s vascular system.
When Spot Anthracnose initially emerges, small light brown spots of dead tissue emerge on the leaves and blossoms in the late spring and summer. The spots develop during the cool, wet humid spring weather. Often the brown dieback is located along the leaf’s vein system.
The disease is caused by a fungus that over-winters on the bark of the tree or on fallen leaves. In the spring, the fungus is spread by rain and wind, which transports the fungus to newly developing healthy leaves and blossoms. When the tree is severely infected over several seasons the fungus will infect and kill branches.
Promote the overall health of the tree with regular proper fertilizing, using the TreeHelp Annual Care Kit. If a tree has been infected spray it with the Fungi Max Multi-Purpose Fungicide. Repeat as necessary. To reduce or prevent reoccurrence the following year, in the fall, spray the tree and surrounding area with the Fungi Max Multi-Purpose Fungicide to reduce the number of over-wintering spores. Also be sure to remove and destroy any fallen leaves. Click here for more details
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Anthracnose is a very common disease that can attack a very wide range of plants and trees. There are two ways Anthracnose disease can attack trees: 1) Spot Anthracnose that impacts tree leaves and blossoms, and; 2) the more harmful canker version which disrupts and can destroy a tree’s vascular system.
If a tree is infected with Anthracnose over several seasons, the fungal disease can begin to infect twigs and branches. Once the tree’s vascular system becomes infected with Anthracnose, the tree’s bark will begin to show symptoms. Dark colored lesions or indents can begin to show on branches and twigs. Cankers can develop and branches show dieback. As the tree is stressed, it is common to see small saplings begin to sprout from the base of the tree’s trunk.
When a tree’s vascular system is infected with Anthracnose, immediate steps need to be taken to arrest the disease spread. In the early spring, at the time of bud break, spray the tree with Fungi Max Multi-Purpose Fungicide. Continue spraying the tree with the fungicide every week until the leaves are fully developed. Once the leaves are fully developed spray the tree every 3 to 4 weeks until the end of the season. To enhance the effectiveness of the Fungi Max Multi-Purpose Fungicide, mix the spray with Nature’s Own Helper spray additive.
If the tree is too tall to spray, treat with the Garden Fos with Pentra-Bark.
In addition to treating the tree with the appropriate fungicide, prune and destroy dead and severely diseased branches. Be sure to prune during dry weather and sanitize the pruning tools after each cut with a mixture of 1 part bleach and 4 parts water.
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Apple Scab initially appears as small brown spots on the undersides of leaves, and then spreading to the top of the leaf and eventually to the fruit itself. On the fruit it appears as light brown spots, about ¼ to ½ inch in diameter. The brown spots feel rough to the touch. When a tree is attacked by Apple Scab, the fruit is often malformed and cracked and can drop prematurely. In cases of severe infestations, a tree can become totally defoliated.
The Apple Scab fungus overwinters in fallen leaves on the ground and then re-infects that tree in the spring as it is moved by the wind. If it lands on leaves that are wet it will begin to spread spores, which infect the leaf and fruit. In most cases, even infected fruit is still edible.
To control Apple Scab, in the fall remove and destroy any fallen leaves that are under the tree. In the spring, spray the tree with Captan Fungicide. The tree should be sprayed as soon as the leaves emerge on the tree and again once the leaves are fully developed. A further spraying can be done when the fruit has begun to develop. To increase the effectiveness of the Captan Fungicide, apply it with Nature's Own Spray Helper, which increases the rate of bonding and penetration of the fungicide into the tree’s foliage.
If spraying is not an option, apply the Garden with Pentra-Bark directly on the tree’s trunk.
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Some of the symptoms of Armillaria Root Rot include the dulling of normal leaf color and the loss of a tree's growing vigor. Often leaves may wilt and turn yellow or brown. Major branches can also die or show excessive signs of wilt. Armillaria Root Rot often causes fruit trees and ornamental trees to slowly die over a period of several growing seasons, but the rate of death can accelerate considerable if the tree is also under insect or nutrient stress.
In fruit trees, a sign of Armillaria Root Rot is often the lack of fruit production on any of the lower branches, with fruit only visible on the upper branches. The roots can also appear to be decaying and the lower trunk and cambium layer of the tree often have brown spots. As the root rot spreads it is also possible to see small white mushrooms or white fan like plaques or strands develop around the base of the tree trunk. Infections are most prevalent in areas of poor drainage or heavy dense soil.
Armillaria Root Rot, if left untreated, can cause rapid tree decline and death. Trees sometimes live for many months in a weakened state, while others will die very quickly.
To control the spread of Armillaria Root Rot, remove dead trees and as much of their roots as possible. If the plant is newly infected, expose its base to air for several inches by removing 3 to 4 inches of soil. In cooler temperatures (before freezing), recover the exposed roots with loose soil.
Armillaria Root Rot should be treated with Agri-Fos Systemic Fungicide foliar spray or, if spraying is not an option, apply the Garden Fos with Pentra-Bark directly on the tree’s trunk. If using the foliar spray, repeat every 1 to 2 months and increase the dosage and frequency in more advanced disease cases.
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Bacterial Blight is caused by bacteria which is spread by the wind, rain, insects or pruning tools that are not properly sanitized.
To prevent the onset of Bacterial Blight, ensure proper spacing when trees are planted. For trees with dense foliage, prune where necessary to ensure proper air circulation and be sure to sanitize the pruning tools after each branch with a mixture of 1 part bleach and 5 parts water. Properly fertilize the tree with a TreeHelp Annual Care Kit to maintain strong healthy growth.
In the spring when conditions are favorable to the spread of Bacterial Blight, spray the tree with Liquid Copper Fungicide Spray as a preventative treatment. If the tree becomes infected with Bacterial Blight, spray the tree with Monterey Fungi-Fighter and repeat spraying every 14 to 21 days as necessary. Click here for more details
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Black knot is visible as soft greenish knots or elongated swellings which form on the twigs and branches. The knots develop into black, corky, cylindrical galls that range from about 1/2 to 1 1/2 inches in diameter and may be more than 12 inches long. Branches beyond the galls are often stunted or dead.
Black knot is caused by a fungus that multiplies during wet spring weather. The visual symptoms are often seen 6 to 12 months after initial infection.
To control black knot, prune out an destroy infected twigs and branches in the fall and winter. Be sure to cut at least 4 inches below the visible signs of the knot. After each twig branch cut, be sure to sanitize your pruning tool in a mixture of 1 part bleach and 6 parts water as this helps to reduce the spread of the fungus. Large knots or cankers on main branches or the trunk should be cut out to a depth of at least 1/2 inch beyond the infection. In the spring spray the tree with either Captan Fungicide for Fruit & Ornamental Trees or the Fungi Max Multi-Purpose Fungicide. Two or three more sprays at intervals of 7 to 10 days are required during the spring season.
Since an affected tree is under immense stress, it is also important to give the tree a good fertilizing. For general tree maintenance, proper fertilization and to improve the overall health of the tree, applying a TreeHelp Annual Care Kit is recommended. These kits contain appropriate fertilizer, mycorrhizal fungi and biostimulant, promoting root development and long-term vitality.
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Black Spot disease appears on the leaves of trees and shrubs as small black circular spots that range in size from about ¼ inch to 1 inch in diameter. They normally appear on the upper surface of the leaf, starting in the early to mid-spring. As the disease progresses, the leaf tissue around the black spot often yellows and premature leaf drop often occurs. In cases of severe infection, a plant or tree can lose many of its leaves by mid-season. Flowering trees and roses that are infected have fewer or no blossoms as a result of the stress caused by the Black Spot.
Black spot is caused by a fungus called Diplocarpon rosaewhich overwinters on infected leaves. In the spring, especially in areas of high humidity and rain, the fungal spores are splashed on to new leaves and begin their infection cycle. The fungal spores enter the leaf tissue and as they reproduce they cause the black spots. Normally infections are limited to the leaves, but they can also infect new twig growth. Repeated exposure to black spot can cause death or increase susceptibility to other infections.
To control Black Spot, spray the tree with Monterey Fungi-Fighter. Repeat the spraying every 7 to 14 days as necessary, as long as the weather remains humid and damp. Avoid watering plants and trees from above, always water at the ground level. In the fall remove all leaf debris to avoid re-infecting trees and plants the following spring. If infected trees are pruned during the dormant fall or early spring period, spray the tree with Liquid Copper Fungicide Spray after pruning and be sure to sanitize the pruning tools after each branch cut.
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Botrytis Blight is a common plant and tree disease that is also known as gray mold, blossom blight, bud blight or flower blight. It is caused by one of several fungi from the Botrytis species of fungus. Botrytis Blight can infect many different types of plants including ornamental trees, fruit trees, flowers, shrubs and vegetables, and the fungus, under certain conditions, can be spread between many different types of plants.
The fungus normally begins to grow and multiply on plant debris such as fallen leaves and blossoms and over-ripe fruit. Initially the growth and infection is limited to dead or decaying plant matter, but as the fungus replicates it begins to attack and invade healthy plant tissue. Once a tree or plant is infected the most visible signs of the infection are decaying fruit, spotting and decaying flowers (still on the plant) and in advanced cases cankers developing on the tree or plant. Botrytis Blight is most prevalent and invasive in cool, moist conditions.
The first step to controlling an outbreak of Botrytis Blight is to remove and destroy any dead leaves, flowers or rotting fruit, especially if it is in contact with damp or wet soil. Avoid using a foliar sprinkler to water trees and plants. Always water plants at the ground level and trees at the drip-line with a soaker hose. At the first sign of an outbreak of Botrytis Blight spray with Captan Fungicide and repeat every 14 days, as necessary.
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Brown Patch on grass appears as small circular patches of dead grass. The circular patches can range in size form a few inches to several feet in size. The patches are caused by a fungus called Rhizoctonia solani which attacks all types of turf grass. Brown Patch is one of the most prevalent turf disease and is most aggressive in warm, humid locations.
At the first sign of a Brown Patch infection, spray the lawn with Monterey Fungi-Fighter. Repeat the spray 3 to 4 times every 7 to 10 days. Reduce the use of nitrogen fertilizers and reduce watering. When watering the lawn, only water in the morning.
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Brown Rot Blossom Blight is a common and potentially destructive disease of stone fruit trees, including cherry, plum and peach trees, as well as ornamental flowering trees such as weeping cherry and flowering plum trees.
When a tree is infected with Brown Rot Blossom Blight the disease symptoms will begin to appear in the spring shortly after blossoming. Diseased flowers wilt, turn brown and are covered with masses of spores. As the disease progresses it can spread to twigs and small branches which will begin to die back. When the branches become infected, often a sticky or gummy sap substance will be seen on the branches.
Brown Rot Blossom Blight is caused by a fungus that over-winters on the tree’s bark and will attack blossoms, leaves, branches and fruit.
To prevent and control Brown Rot Blossom Blight, remove and destroy any infected branches and be sure to properly sanitize pruning tools after each pruning cut. At the first signs of the disease spray the tree with Fungi Max Multi-Purpose Fungicide. Repeat spraying as needed. Click here for more details
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Brown Rot on citrus trees appears on the fruit as light brown or dark brown spots on the skin. The spots may cover only a small part or almost all of the fruit. The markings appear as serious bruises on the fruit. As the infection progresses, it is common to see mold develop on the brown spots and for the fruit to drop. Leaf and twig die back can also be visible, as well as cankers on the tree trunk from which sticky ooze may seep.
The disease is caused by a fungus which inhabits the earth around the tree. The fungus is part of the Phytophthoraspecies. It is most prevalent in wet soil and during periods of excessive rain. The fungus attacks the fruit as it is splashed up on the tree by rain or irrigation spraying.
To control Brown Rot it is important to remove all leaves and damaged fruit when it falls to the ground; prune off all lower branches of the tree so that the tree branches are more than 2 feet from the ground; spray the tree with a fungicide when the disease is identified and again the following spring to prevent re-infection. There are two fungicides that are recommended to control the Brown Rot fungus: Agri-Fos Systemic Fungicide and Captan Fungicide. Repeat spraying every 14 to 21 days as needed. Click here for more details
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There are many pathogens that can cause bud rot of palm trees. Some of the common causes are Phytophthora palmivora, Thielaviopsis paradoxa and bacteria. Regardless of the pathogen causing the disease, the symptoms and treatment are the same.
When a palm tree initially gets infected with bud rot, the first symptoms that become visible are: discoloration and wilting of the spear (new main) leaf and wilting and discoloration of the newer fronds (leaves). The yellowing and wilting is normally from the inner part of the leaf, outwards. In severe cases of disease the main frond or spear leaf can be easily pulled from the bud. In tall palms, where the terminal bud (top point where new growth emerges) cannot be seen from the ground, the early symptoms of palm bud rot are often missed. Often the disease onset is not noticed until new frond growth has stopped and the crown begins to appear to be shrinking or loses its top and appears flat. In cases such as this, often the terminal bud has died, and no new fronds are produced. Existing fronds will remain green for a few months as the tree slowly dies.
Palm bud rot caused by bacterial infections is often associated with cold damage and stress placed on the tree by exposure to cold temperatures. When a palm tree is exposed to cold damage, to prevent the possible onset of palm bud rot the tree should be treated with Liquid Copper Fungicide. Immediately after cold damage the terminal bud should be sprayed, and then repeated every 10 to 14 days for a series of 4 treatments. Do not wait until palm bud rot symptoms emerge. Avoid pruning or removing cold damaged fronds, as this will place more stress on the tree and increase the potential for other bacterial or fungal infections to enter the tree.
When treating and preventing palm bud rot it is important to realize that palm trees have only one terminal bud form which all new growth emerges. Unlike most trees, such as maple and apple trees which have many points where new growth emerges, palms rely exclusively on their single terminal bud. If the terminal bud or heart becomes diseased or freezes during cold periods and dies, the tree will not be able to put out any new leaf growth and will die. That is why regular monitoring of the terminal bud and preventative care are vital to maintaining a healthy palm tree.
It is always best to take steps to prevent the onset of Palm Bud Rot. Preventative steps should be taken if a palm tree has experienced cold damage or palm bud rot has been identified in the local area. As a preventative treatment, spay the tree’s terminal bud with Liquid Copper Fungicideand repeat the treatment every 10 to 14 days, for 3 to 4 treatments, or as necessary.
If a palm tree is already showing symptoms of palm bud rot, immediately treat the tree with Liquid Copper Fungicide, focusing most attention towards the terminal bud. To increase the effectiveness of the spray, mix with Nature's Own Spray Helper. Repeat the spraying every 7 days as necessary. Once a tree is infected with bud rot, it usually dies, but its chances of survival can increase the earlier it is treated with liquid copper.
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There are many different types of cankers that can attack trees and shrubs. Cankers can be caused by both fungal and bacterial infections, but the control method is the same for both types of infection.
On the tree, cankers appear as dark, sunken areas on the trunk and major branches. A canker is often caused by a fungal or bacterial infection within the tree’s vascular system, bursting out beyond the bark. When a canker appears, the bark around it often dies and breaks off, exposing the tree’s fragile vascular system to environmental stress and degradation.
Often the canker will produce a sticky sap substance that oozes from the canker down the trunk or branch. Often the sticky sap attracts insects such as ants and wasps, but they are just a symptom of the canker not the cause. Cankers are caused by a fungus or bacteria that enters bark that has been injured by sunscald, cold injury, boring insect damage, improper pruning wounds or physical injury to the tree.
As the infection spreads it cuts off the tree’s vascular system and causes die-back in the region of the canker. If the canker spreads all the way around the trunk or a major branch, it will fully disrupt the vascular system and cause the branch or the whole tree to die. In most cases a tree is not killed by a canker, but if left untreated it substantially weakens the tree leaving it vulnerable to another disease or insect attack.
During dry weather prune and remove infected branches. Limbs should be pruned 6 to 10 inches beyond the canker symptoms. If the canker is located on the trunk, surgical removal of the canker may save the tree. Using a very sharp knife and a chisel like tool, remove all discolored bark and wood from the canker site. After each cut it is important to sterilize the cutting tools with a mixture of 1 part bleach and 2 parts water, otherwise the bacterial or fungal infection will be transferred to the healthy wood.
Spray the canker area with Agri-Fos & Pentra-Bark Disease Treatment. Ensure that the entire area is well treated. The Pentra-Bark additive helps the fungicide penetrate into the tree’s vascular system. Repeat the spray program every 21 to 30 days for 3 sprayings.
To help the tree recover from a canker infection, ensure the tree is properly fertilized, using a TreeHelp Annual Care Kit. Click here for more details
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Cedar-Apple Rust disease is a very common disease which affects cedar trees, junipers and apple trees. It is unique because in order for it to perpetuate itself, it must alternate between an apple tree and a cedar or juniper tree. It is therefore important to treat all apple trees, junipers and cedar trees in an area, regardless of whether they are yet showing symptoms.
The symptoms of Cedar-apple Rust are most identifiable on apple trees. In the mid to late spring small pale yellow spots appear on the upper surfaces of the leaves. As the season progresses the spots grow in size and small black or brown spots develop in the centre of the larger yellowish spot. As the spots develop and the tree comes under more stress, leaves and fruit will drop prematurely. Cedar-apple Rust is common on both fruit-producing apple trees as well as ornamental flowering apples.
In the spring the fungal spores from the brown and red galls on juniper or red cedar trees are blown by the wind on to the leaves of apple trees where the spores infect the apple tree and rapidly multiply during wet periods. As the season progresses, the fungal spores from the apple tree are blown back on to juniper and red cedar trees where a new infection takes place.
Cedar-Apple Rust cannot be controlled during the active growing season after it has already infected the tree. It is, however, a good idea to apply a fungicide spray during the growing season on the infected tree, as well as surrounding cedar and juniper trees, so as to reduce the degree of infection and re-propagation. During the growing season spray all of the infected and uninfected cedar, juniper and apple trees with Fungi-Fighter. Repeat the spray a second time in about 14 to 21 days.
The following spring spray the trees (especially the apple tree) with Monterey Fungi-Fighter. The first spraying should occur when the tree flowers; the second spray should be applied when about 75% of the flower petals have dropped; and the third spraying should occur about 10 to 14 days later. Click here for more details
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Citrus Scab is characterized by a large number of small raised marks or scab on the fruit of citrus trees. The leaves can also show similar brown scale- and scab- like lesions. In cases of significant infection, the fruit will not develop normally and the tree will undergo early leaf drop. The scab is caused by a fungus that attacks the surfaces of the fruit and leaves. It is encouraged by damp conditions caused by a wet spring period or the use of over-head irrigation and sprinklers.
To control citrus scab, spray the tree with Captan Fungicide. The Captan fungicide should be applied in the late winter before the new spring growth starts and a second spray application should be applied shortly after the petals have dropped from the fruit blossoms. To help reduce the spread and growth of Citrus Scab never use a water sprinkler on a citrus tree. When watering a citrus tree, always use a soaker (or drip) hose on the ground near the tree’s dripline. Click here for more details
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Collar or crown rot is caused by a fungus that invades a tree’s lower trunk or upper roots and begins to block the tree’s vascular system. The infection point often develops as a canker which causes a girdling (strangulation) of the tree as it spreads.
Crown rot and collar rot refer to the same disease, except they have different names depending on the location of the infection (on the root stock or the scion portion of the graft union).
The most obvious symptom found on an infected tree is a partial or complete girdling of the trunk. The diseased tissue at first appears orange and reddish-brown, then becomes browner as the rot and decay advances. The disease spread is most prevalent in areas that have poor drainage or standing water.
It is important to ensure that there is proper drainage in areas of collar or crown rot outbreak or in susceptible areas. At first sign of the disease treat with Agri-Fos Systemic Fungicide. Repeat treatment as needed, depending on the level of disease. Prune and remove cankers that have developed. Be sure to properly sanitize the pruning knife during the canker removal process. Click here for more details
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A conk or mushroom appears around the base of the tree. It is white, gray, brown or even yellowish in color and is often a hard solid growth. The mushrooms are the reproductive bodies of fungi that are growing on decaying wood. Some varieties of conk can decay the wood of a healthy tree, but normally they are found on dead or decaying wood. By the time the conk has appeared on the trunk of a tree it is a strong indication that the tree is suffering from dead wood. It is important to inspect the tree to ensure that it is structurally sound and that it is not dangerous. If the tree or major branches have rotted to the extent that they represent a physical danger, they should be immediately removed.
Recommended Control of Conk
If the degree of wood root is limited, it is important to keep the tree well fertilized (with a low nitrogen fertilizer) and watered so as to boost its own ability to resist the spread of the fungus. Using the TreeHelp Annual Care Kit is recommended to increase the tree’s vitality. The conk can also be removed from the tree and the area sprayed withAgri-Fos Systemic Fungicide to help reduce the level of fungal infection in the area. The fungicide should be reapplied every 2 to 3 weeks for a duration of about 3 months. It is also a good idea to spray the trunks of trees in the area to prevent air-borne transfer of the conk fungal spores from one tree to another.
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Downy mildew appears on plants and trees as small yellow spots on the upper surfaces of leaves and the underside of the leaf is covered with white, cottony growth. The yellow spots appear initially on older leaves and gradually turn brown and brittle.
Downy Mildew is very prevalent on grape vines and causes leaf wilting and inhibits the fruit from maturing. The fungus that causes Downy Mildew (Plasmopara viticola) over-winters on fallen diseased leaves.
To control Downy Mildew, in the fall, it is important to collect and remove all fallen leaves and follage. At the first sign of the disease in the spring or early summer, spray the affected tree or vine with Captan Fungicide. Repeat the spray evey 10 days during the growing season. To prevent the spread of Downy Mildew, spray susceptible plants located in close proximity to diseased trees and plants.
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Fire Blight is a bacterial infection caused by the Erwinia amylovora bacteria. It is most prevalent on the following trees: apple, pear, hawthorn, cotoneaster, firethorn and mountain ash. The bacteria overwinters on or under infected bark and in the early spring begins to ooze out. During the damp spring period the disease is spread by rain, improper pruning and insects such as honeybees which transmit the bacterial infection from blossom to blossom. Trees are very vulnerable to Fire Blight infections immediately after heavy rains or hail storms where leaf tissue is exposed from rips and physical damage.
Once the blossom or leaf is infected, the bacteria spreads quickly throughout new tender growth, but slows as it reaches more mature woody growth. As the branch is infected, the leaves begin to brown and blacken and appear almost burnt, hence the name fire blight.
As the disease advances and the fungus reproduces, it begins to block the tree’s vascular system and causes branch die back or cankers to develop as the bacteria expands and “bursts out” of the tree’s bark.
If left untreated, Fire Blight will gradually infect the entire tree, block the tree’s vascular system and kill it.
To control or prevent fire blight, in the early spring, before bud break, spray the tree with Liquid Copper Fungicide to reduce or eliminate any bacterial spores that are overwintering on the bark.
Shortly after bud break, spray the tree with Agri-Fos Systemic Fungicide, ensuring thorough coverage. To improve the binding and penetration for the fungicide applied it with Nature's Own Spray Helper or Pentra-Bark (call for details). Repeat the spray at one to two month intervals, more frequently in high disease situations.
Prune out infected branches. The point of pruning must be 12 to 16 inches beyond the last visible signs of the disease on the branch. It is critical that the pruning tools be sanitized after each branch is pruned, so as to prevent spreading the disease form branch to branch.
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Fusarium blight or fusarium patch on lawns is caused by the soil-borne fungus (Fusarium) which during hot weather causes brown patches on lawns and turf. Fusarium blight on lawns normally attacks Kentucky bluegrass and other bluegrass varieties. Fusarium disease normally starts out as small patches, only a few inches in size, which grow during hot weather conditions and can reach several feet in diameter.
Once the extreme symptoms of Fusarrium Blight become visible on a lawn, it is not possible to control the disease during the current growing season. To prevent the reoccurrence of the disease the following season, avoid using high nitrogen fertilizers and the following spring, before the signs of the disease re-emerge, spray the grass with Monterey Fungi Fighter. Repeat the spraying 2 additional times (as needed) every 14 to 21 days.
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Greasy spot is fungal disease that normally is found on citrus trees. Tell-tale signs include yellowish-brownish blister spots on leaves, often on the underside. As the disease develops, the spots develop into oily looking blisters. Greasy spot can cause significant leaf loss, particularly during winter and can also infect the fruit rind (particularly on grapefruit).
To control Greasy Spot, regularly collect and remove any fallen leaves, thus reducing the source of new spores and re-infection. Spay the tree with Liquid Copper Fungicide in June or July. A second spray application may need to be applied in August or September to protect late-summer growth.
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Depending on the soil in the local area, it is possible for trees to show signs of iron deficiency. The most common symptoms of iron deficiency are seen on the younger, newly formed leaves, which appear pale green or yellow. When you examine the leave you can see a distinct skeleton pattern on the leaf surface because the veins in the leaf remain green while the soft tissue of the leaf is yellow or pale green. In extreme cases of iron deficiency, the new leaves are all yellow, smaller in size or completely stunted.
Trees often suffer from iron deficiencies, as well as deficiencies of other micronutrients such as copper, zinc and manganese. The deficiencies can occur when the nutrients are depleted in the soil or when the ph level is very alkaline, meaning over a reading of about 7.0. At ph levels over 7.0, trees have a difficult time utilizing key nutrients such as iron. Excessive use of lime or the leaching of lime from gravel, cement and bricks can cause the alkaline soil condition. This is a very common situation where recent construction has occurred or new patio stones have been installed. Alkaline soils are also common in geographical regions where limestone is prevalent and rainfall is low.
Recommended Control Steps
It is easy to correct an iron deficiency. Simply place TreeHelp Iron Tablets in the soil at the tree’s drip-line. These chelated iron tablets will slowly release iron and adjust the ph level so that the tree can absorb and utilize the newly replenished iron.
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Leaf curl is a fungal disease that can attack various fruit tree varieties, but is most prevalent on peach and nectarine trees. Leaf curl is caused by the fungus Taphrina deformans. Early in the spring, shortly after the leaves emerge, the leaves appear thickened, puckered and curled and often a yellow, pink and red color. As the season progresses, the growth of new shoots is stunted and a whitish-gray powdery substance appears on the leaves.
The fungus that causes leaf curl infects the leaves very early in the spring, right at the time of bud break when fungal spores that have over-wintered on the bark are splashed on the leaves and a new season of infection begins.
Leaves, once infected, cannot be cured during the same growing season. Once the disease is detected steps must be taken to prevent re-infection the following growing season. In the initial season that the disease is identified, spray the tree with the Fungi Max Multi-Purpose Fungicide. Repeat the spray about 21 days later. The mid-season spray will not prevent or cure the disease, but is designed to reduce the fungal load for repeated infection and to prevent the spread to other healthy trees.
To repeat infections the following season, spray the entire tree twice (in the fall, after leaf drop and in the early spring, before bud break) with the Fungi Max Multi-Purpose Fungicide. To improve the effectives and adhesion to the tree, when spraying the fungicide, mix wit with the Nature's Own Spray Helper. Click here for more details
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Rust infections are a common problem on deciduous trees. The symptoms of a rust infection can be seen as small reddish or yellow bubbles or postulants on the lower surface of leaf. The rust usually appears late in the season and may cause leaf yellowing, early leaf drop and in cases of severe infections, significant defoliation throughout the tree.
Recommended Control of Leaf Rust
Since Rust generally appears late in the season, a good sanitation program, which includes raking and disposing of all leaves after they drop in the fall, is usually adequate to prevent re-infection the following year. If additional control is required, or as a proactive preventative treatment, during spring bud break spray the tree with Liquid Copper Fungicide. Repeat the spray twice more every 14 to 20 days. In more serious cases of rust disease or if the disease re-appears over serval years apply Monterey Fungi Fighter early in the spring shortly after bud break and again mid-season or at first signs of symptoms.
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Leaf scorch is a common problem for many broad-leaf trees such as maples, oaks and elms during periods of hot dry weather. This is most often seen during the months of July and August. The visual symptom of leaf scorch is the browning of the tree leaves from the edges of the leaves inwards. The browning is generally spread throughout the canopy, unlike verticillum wilt which is more spotty and located only on certain branches.
Recommended Control of Leaf Scorch
To prevent leaf scorch ensure the tree receives adequate water by undertaking regular deep root watering for the tree. The easiest way to give a large tree a deep root watering is to place either a sprinkler or a soaker hose over the tree's drip line and let it run for about 2 hours, ensuring lots of water penetrates the soil. Applying the TreeHelp Biostimulant as part of the watering program will help promote root growth and increase a tree’s ability to collect water through its roots.
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Leaf and tar spots can be a problem during wet weather. The spots appear as small brown or black spots on the top of leaves often developing in early to mid summer. Since the disease is rarely serious, no chemical controls are normally needed. However, in severe cases or to improve the look of the tree, spray the tree with Liquid Copper Fungicide. The fungicide spray should be applied when the leaf spots are first noticed and again in about 14 to 20 days. The following spring, shortly after bud break, re-spray the tree to ensure no over-wintering of the spot disease. Since the leaf spot fungus over winters in the fallen leaves and then re-infects the tree the following spring, it is important in the autumn to collect up and remove any leaves that have fallen to the ground.
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Verticillium Wilt, often called Maple wilt, is a very common disease that attacks a large number of trees. It is caused by a soil-inhabiting fungus called Verticillium. The disease fungus can be spread by many methods including from plant-to-plant, through the soil, groundwater and often by infected pruning equipment that has not been properly sanitized. The disease normally enters the tree through the soil, but can also be introduced into a tree through a wound. Once in the tree, the fungus begins to spread throughout the tree’s vascular system. As the fungus level increases, the tree’s vascular system becomes blocked preventing the tree from adequately moving water and nutrients throughout the tree.
The first signs that a tree has a Verticillium Wilt infection is the yellowing and then browning of leaves at the ends of some branches. Initially the yellowing and browning of the leaves is spotty throughout the tree and does not follow a uniform pattern. As the fungus begins to block the vascular system, the browning of leaves becomes more acute and more wide-spread. New leaves generally are either non-existent, undersized or yellowed.
As the disease spreads, the infected tree may slowly die branch by branch over several seasons. The symptoms and severity of Verticillium wilt are much more harsh during droughts when the tree’s vascular system is already stressed.
Recommended Control Steps of Verticillium Wilt
There is no chemical control for Verticillium Wilt, but there are several steps that can be taken to help control the spread of the disease, as well as to enhance a tree’s ability to control or even contain the disease. These include pruning, fertilizing and watering.
Prune and remove all dead wood. The pruning should be a few inches below the diseased area, so as to remove as many of the fungal concentrations as possible. When pruning do not remove branches that have recently wilted as they may reflush again in a few weeks or the following spring. When pruning be sure to properly sanitize the pruning tools after each cut.
Give the tree a very good fertilization with a slow release nitrogen blend. Apply the TreeHelp Annual Care Kit, as this treatment contains an appropriate fertilizer, as well as a mycorrhizal treatment and biostimulant to assist the tree in taking up and metabolizing moisture and nutrients.
It is important to give a tree suffering from verticillium wilt a deep root watering at least twice or three times a week. The objective of a deep root watering is to ensure that the water penetrates deep into the soil, to a depth of at least 24 to 36 inches so that the entire root zone is hydrated. The easiest way to give a large tree a deep root watering is to place either a sprinkler or a soaker hose over the tree's drip line and let it run for about 2 hours, ensuring lots of water penetrates the soil. A deep root watering is much better than frequent shallow waterings, which do not get moisture to the lower roots. During periods of extreme drought you may also want to consider spraying the soil around the tree's root zone with Hydretain Root Zone Moisture Manager. Hydretain is a unique and advanced product specifically designed to assist a tree in dealing with drought stress. It works like a natural magnet to hold water near the tree's root zone and keep the root zone hydrated during periods of drought stress.
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Dwarf mistletoe is a parasitic plant that can infest many evergreen trees. Dwarf Mistletoe lacks a normal roots system and so relies on the host tree to supply most of its nutrients. In the summer, dwarf mistletoe spreads by discarding sticky seeds that can travel as much as 50 feet to neighboring trees. The following spring the seeds begin to germinate and root-like structures begin to penetrate the tree’s bark. The mistletoe begins to suck nutrients from the tree causing branch die-back, yellowing, swelling of some branches and the appearance of cankers.
Heavily infested branches should be pruned off. Smaller infestations can be physically removed from the branches. The spread of dwarf mistletoe can be achieved through the use of Florel Growth Regulator as a foliar spray on the tree. Treat any mistletoe re-growth with Florel before seed dispersal in mid-summer.
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Leafy mistletoe appears on trees as a rich green leafy plant which can grow to 4 to 5 feet in size. Leafy Mistletoe is most obvious during the winter when trees naturally lose their leaves, and the mistletoe cluster becomes more evident. Leafy Mistletoe is a semi-parasitic plant that relies on the host tree for its nutrients and moisture, This places a significant amount of stress on the host tree and can cause die-back on braches that are infected. In cases of heavy infestation it can also cause death for the host tree.
To control leafy mistletoe, heavily infested branches should be pruned. The pruning should occur about 18 inches below the point of mistletoe attachment. The spread of leafy mistletoe can be achieved by through the use of Florel Growth Regulator as a foliar spray on the tree. The tree should be sprayed in the fall after leaf drop or in the spring before leaf out
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A conk or mushroom appears around the base of the tree. It is white, gray, brown or even yellowish in color and is often a hard solid growth. The mushrooms are the reproductive bodies of fungi that are growing on decaying wood. Some varieties of conk can decay the wood of a healthy tree, but normally they are found on dead or decaying wood. By the time the conk has appeared on the trunk of a tree it is a strong indication that the tree is suffering from dead wood. It is important to inspect the tree to ensure that it is structurally sound and that it is not dangerous. If the tree or major branches have rotted to the extent that they represent a physical danger, they should be immediately removed.
Recommended Control Steps
If the degree of wood root is limited, it is important to keep the tree well fertilized (with a low nitrogen fertilizer) and watered so as to boost its own ability to resist the spread of the fungus. Using the TreeHelp Annual Care Kit is recommended to increase the tree’s vitality. The conk can also be removed from the tree and the area sprayed with Agri-Fos Systemic Fungicide to help reduce the level of fungal infection in the area. The fungicide should be reapplied every 2 to 3 weeks for a duration of about 3 months. It is also a good idea to spray the trunks of trees in the area to prevent air-borne transfer of the conk fungal spores from one tree to another.
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Needlecast (or needle cast) disease is a fungal disease that attacks a variety of evergreen trees, including spruce and pine trees. When a tree is infected, it will begin to show small brown or black spots on new needle growth. The following spring the spots appear more pronounced and the needles turn yellow, brown and then drop mid-season.
Branches that are severely infected often died. The spread of needlecast often occurs from the base of the tree upwards, with lower branches of the tree dying first as the infection progresses.
Trees that are infected with Needlecast disease exhibit very slow growth and become much more susceptible to other disease and environmental stresses because the Needlecast substantially reduces the tree’s ability to undertake photosynthesis.
To reduce the chances of a tree contracting needlecast it is important to promote strong healthy vigorous growth by properly watering and fertilizing the tree. Use the TreeHelp Annual Care Kit for proper fertilizing.
When pruning evergreen trees, avoid pruning when the trees are damp or wet and be sure to sanitize the pruning tools after each branch, thus preventing spread from branch to branch or tree to tree.
To control Needlecast on a tree that is already infected, prune severely infected branches. Spray the tree with Fungi Max Multi-Purpose Fungicide in the early spring. To enhance the effectiveness of the fungicide mix with Nature's Own Spray Helper. Repeat the spray every 14 to 21 days, as necessary.
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Collar or crown rot is caused by a fungus that invades a tree’s lower trunk or upper roots and begins to block the tree’s vascular system. The infection point often develops as a canker which causes a girdling (strangulation) of the tree as it spreads.
Crown rot and collar rot refer to the same disease, except they have different names depending on the location of the infection (on the root stock or the scion portion of the graft union).
The most obvious symptom found on an infected tree is a partial or complete girdling of the trunk. The diseased tissue at first appears orange and reddish-brown, then becomes browner as the rot and decay advances. The disease spread is most prevalent in areas that have poor drainage or standing water.
It is important to ensure that there is proper drainage in areas of collar or crown rot outbreak or in susceptible areas. At first sign of the disease treat with Agri-Fos Systemic Fungicide. Repeat treatment as needed, depending on the level of disease. Prune and remove cankers that have developed. Be sure to properly sanitize the pruning knife during the canker removal process. Click here for more details
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Powdery mildew can be identified as grayish white powdery patches covering the surface of leaves and stems. There are many different strains of powdery mildew, but the basic treatment is the same for most varieties. Powdery Mildew is one of the most common diseases and infects all types of plants and trees, outdoors and indoors.
Powdery Mildew grows on the outside of leaves and unlike many other bacterial or fungal infections, does not require damp surfaces, as it can grow on both dry and wet leaves. Infections are from the wind blowing fungal spreads from plant to plant.
As the powdery mildew spreads, the leaves eventually turn yellow and wither and the disease can kill entire branches.
To control Powdery Mildew, spay the tree with Bi-Carb Old Fashioned Organic Fungicide which is certified for organic gardening. Repeat the spraying every 10 to 14 days as necessary.
To prevent the onset of Powdery Mildew, prune areas of dense foliage to provide good air circulation throughout the tree.
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Purple blotch is a fungal disease that predominantly affects onions, garlic and shallots. The disease is characterized by small white spots which develop into large purple colored blotches.
Spray affected plants with Liquid Copper Fungicide and repeat as necessary. Click here for more details
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Pythium blight, also called cottony blight or grease spot, is a fungal disease of turf-grasses. All turf-grasses are susceptible to attack and the disease is most aggressive during hot, humid conditions. Poorly drained soil is also a common condition of disease growth.
Pythium blight is identifiable by small spots or patches of blighted grass that suddenly appear during warm, damp periods. As the disease progresses, the grass leaves shrivel and the patches fade from green to light brown. With close examination early in the morning, cottony fungal growth can often be seen on the foliage.
To prevent the development of Pythium Blight on turfgrass ensure that good water management practices are followed to avoid over watering or moisture pooling. Increase aeration of the lawn and remove old thatch. Avoid over fertilizing the grass with excessive nitrogen.
If the symptoms of Pythium Blight appear, spray the affected areas with Agri-Fos Systemic Fungicide. Repeat the spraying every 14 to 21 days as necessary to prevent further spread. Repeat the following year when conditions are favorable to reemergence or when symptoms first appear.
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Needlecast (or needle cast) disease is a fungal disease that attacks a variety of evergreen trees, including spruce and pine trees. When a tree is infected, it will begin to show small brown or black spots on new needle growth. The following spring the spots appear more pronounced and the needles turn yellow, brown and then drop mid-season.
Branches that are severely infected often died. The spread of needlecast often occurs from the base of the tree upwards, with lower branches of the tree dying first as the infection progresses.
Trees that are infected with Needlecast disease exhibit very slow growth and become much more susceptible to other disease and environmental stresses because the Needlecast substantially reduces the tree’s ability to undertake photosynthesis.
To reduce the chances of a tree contracting needlecast it is important to promote strong healthy vigorous growth by properly watering and fertilizing the tree. Use the TreeHelp Annual Care Kit for proper fertilizing.
When pruning evergreen trees, avoid pruning when the trees are damp or wet and be sure to sanitize the pruning tools after each branch, thus preventing spread from branch to branch or tree to tree.
To control Needlecast on a tree that is already infected, prune severely infected branches. Spray the tree with Fungi Max Multi-Purpose Fungicide in the early spring. To enhance the effectiveness of the fungicide mix with Nature's Own Spray Helper. Repeat the spray every 14 to 21 days, as necessary.
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There are several different types of root rot that can attack, damage and kill trees including Armillaria Root Rot, Phytophthora Root Rot and Phymatotrichum Root Rot. There are also many common names for these various root rots including cotton root rot, Texas root rot, mushroom root rot, oak root rot and many other names used in various regions throughout North America.
Some of the symptoms of root rot include the dulling of normal leaf color and the loss of a tree's growing vigor. Often leaves may wilt and turn yellow or brown. Major branches can also die or show excessive signs of wilt. In fruit trees, a sign of root rot is often the lack of fruit production on any of the lower branches, with fruit only visible on the upper branches. The roots can also appear to be decaying and the lower trunk and cambium layer of the tree often have brown spots. As the root rot spreads it is also possible to see small white mushrooms or white fan-like plaques or strands develop around the base of the tree trunk.
Root rot, if left untreated, can cause rapid tree decline and death. Trees sometimes live for many months in a weakened state, while others will die very quickly.
To control the spread of root rot, remove dead trees and as much of their roots as possible. If the plant is newly infected, expose its base to air for several inches by removing 3 to 4 inches of soil. Root Rot should be treated with Agri-Fos Systemic Fungicide. If using the foliar spray, repeat every 1 to 2 months and increase the dosage and frequency in more advanced disease cases.
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Rust infections are a common problem on deciduous trees. The symptoms of a rust infection can be seen as small reddish or yellow bubbles or postulants on the lower surface of leaf. The rust usually appears late in the season and may cause leaf yellowing, early leaf drop and in cases of severe infections, significant defoliation throughout the tree.
Recommended Control of Rust
Since Rust generally appears late in the season, a good sanitation program, which includes raking and disposing of all leaves after they drop in the fall, is usually adequate to prevent re-infection the following year. If additional control is required, or as a proactive preventative treatment, during spring bud break spray the tree with Liquid Copper Fungicide. Repeat the spray twice more every 14 to 20 days. In more serious cases of rust disease or if the disease re-appears over serval years apply Monterey Fungi Fighter early in the spring shortly after bud break and again mid-season or at first signs of symptoms.
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Rust infections are a common problem on deciduous trees. The symptoms of a rust infection can be seen as small reddish or yellow bubbles or postulants on the lower surface of leaf. The rust usually appears late in the season and may cause leaf yellowing, early leaf drop and in cases of severe infections, significant defoliation throughout the tree.
Recommended Control of Rust
Since Rust generally appears late in the season, a good sanitation program, which includes raking and disposing of all leaves after they drop in the fall, is usually adequate to prevent re-infection the following year. If additional control is required, or as a proactive preventative treatment, during spring bud break spray the tree with Liquid Copper Fungicide. Repeat the spray twice more every 14 to 20 days. In more serious cases of rust disease or if the disease re-appears over serval years apply Monterey Fungi Fighter early in the spring shortly after bud break and again mid-season or at first signs of symptoms.
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Fruit tree scab is characterized by a large number of small raised marks or scab on the fruit. The leaves can also show similar brown, scale- and scab-like lesions. In cases of significant infection, the fruit will not develop normally and the tree will undergo early leaf drop. The scab is caused by a fungus that attacks the surfaces of the fruit and leaves. It is encouraged by damp conditions caused by a wet spring period or the use of over-head irrigation and sprinklers.
To control scab on trees, spray the tree with Captan Fungicide. It should be applied in the early spring before the new spring growth starts and then again shortly after the petals have dropped from the fruit blossoms. A third spraying can be applied shortly after the fruit has formed. To help reduce the spread and growth of scab on fruit, never use a above-ground sprinkler on a fruit tree as the water will help spread the scab. When watering a fruit tree, always use a soaker (or drip) hose on the ground near the tree’s drip-line.
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The main symptom of slime flux (often called wet wood) is the oozing of sour-smelling sap from the tree's trunk, cracks and branch crotches. The sap is more prevalent during the spring and early summer when the tree is growing more rapidly. The sap drips down the bark and causes a gray-white streaking on the trunk and branches. The tree may also show signs of wilting and leaf scorch. Often insects will be attracted to the sap, but they are the symptoms, not the cause of the slim flux.
Slime Flux can be caused by several different bacterial infections in the tree's vascular system. Basically it is caused by increased pressure on the tree's vascular system due to higher levels of bacterial fermentation in the tree's heartwood. This pressure leads to discharge oozing through cracks and openings in the tree's bark.
Recommended Control of Slime Flux
There is no specific treatment for slime flux, but it is very important to properly fertilize and water the tree, as it is under immense stress from the infection. Often the problem goes away after a few years as the tree's vascular system becomes stronger. It is very important to focus on maintaining the tree's overall health, so that it does not become susceptible to other disease or insect attacks.
To improve the overall health of the tree, apply the TreeHelp Annual Care Kit. These kits contain appropriate fertilizer, mycorrhizal fungi and biostimulant, promoting root development and long-term vitality.
It is important to give the tree a deep root watering at least twice a week, and more frequently during periods of extreme drought. The objective of a deep root watering is to ensure that the water penetrates deeply into the soil, to a depth of at least 24 to 36 inches so that the entire root zone is hydrated.
For severe drought problems you may also want to consider spraying the soil around the tree's root zone with Hydretain Root Zone Moisture Manager. This is a unique and advanced product specifically designed to assist a tree in dealing with drought stress. It works like a natural magnet to hold water near the tree's root zone and keep the root zone hydrated during periods of drought stress.
Click here for more details
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Verticillium Wilt, often called Maple Wilt when it affects maples, is a very common disease that attacks a large number of trees. It is caused by a soil-inhabiting fungus called Verticillium. The disease fungus can be spread by many methods including from plant-to-plant, through the soil, groundwater and often by infected pruning equipment that has not been properly sanitized. The disease normally enters the tree through the soil, but can also be introduced into a tree through a wound. Once in the tree, the fungus begins to spread throughout the tree’s vascular system. As the fungus level increases, the tree’s vascular system becomes blocked preventing the tree from adequately moving water and nutrients throughout the tree.
The first signs that a tree has a Verticillium Wilt infection is the yellowing and then browning of leaves at the ends of some branches. Initially the yellowing and browning of the leaves is spotty throughout the tree and does not follow a uniform pattern. As the fungus begins to block the vascular system, the browning of leaves becomes more acute and more wide-spread. New leaves generally are either non-existent, undersized or yellowed.
As the disease spreads, the infected tree may slowly die branch by branch over several seasons. The symptoms and severity of Verticillium wilt are much more harsh during droughts when the tree’s vascular system is already stressed.
Recommended Control of Verticillium Wilt
There is no chemical control for Verticillium Wilt, but there are several steps that can be taken to help control the spread of the disease, as well as to enhance a tree’s ability to control or even contain the disease. These include pruning, fertilizing and watering.
Prune and remove all dead wood. The pruning should be a few inches below the diseased area, so as to remove as many of the fungal concentrations as possible. When pruning do not remove branches that have recently wilted as they may reflush again in a few weeks or the following spring. When pruning be sure to properly sanitize the pruning tools after each cut.
Give the tree a very good fertilization with a slow release nitrogen blend. Apply the TreeHelp Annual Care Kit, as this treatment contains an appropriate fertilizer, as well as a mycorrhizal treatment and biostimulant to assist the tree in taking up and metabolizing moisture and nutrients.
It is important to give a tree suffering from verticillium wilt a deep root watering at least twice or three times a week. The objective of a deep root watering is to ensure that the water penetrates deep into the soil, to a depth of at least 24 to 36 inches so that the entire root zone is hydrated. The easiest way to give a large tree a deep root watering is to place either a sprinkler or a soaker hose over the tree's drip line and let it run for about 2 hours, ensuring lots of water penetrates the soil. A deep root watering is much better than frequent shallow waterings, which do not get moisture to the lower roots. During periods of extreme drought you may also want to consider spraying the soil around the tree's root zone with Hydretain Root Zone Moisture Manager. Hydretain is a unique and advanced product specifically designed to assist a tree in dealing with drought stress. It works like a natural magnet to hold water near the tree's root zone and keep the root zone hydrated during periods of drought stress.
Click here for more details
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